Swimming with the Whales in Tonga

humpback whale, pic by michael dawes

My husband and I recently returned from Tonga, where we had travelled specifically to swim with the humpback whales.

Humpback whales are just about in constant motion, migrating north to the warmer waters to mate and to give birth (fasting the whole time), then migrating south to the Antarctic waters where they eat as much krill as they can to build up reserves for the journey north once more.

At up to 16 metres in length and 36,000 kilograms in weight, swimming with these whales is an awe inspiring activity. While there, we met a trio of ‘whale groupies’ who travel to Tonga each year to swim with them over and over again. Each night on their return to the resort, they sat with their laptops and video cameras going over their footage from the day, the joy and wonder never lessening. They’ve already booked their place again for next year, and we aren’t far behind. Once you’ve done this, you’ll want to do it again and again.

We had one particularly beautiful afternoon swimming with a mother and calf who were taking it easy in the shallow, sheltered waters between the islands of the Vavau group in Tonga. (Tonga is made up of over 100 islands.) We snorkelled along beside them, so close that at one point I started backing away because I thought the mum’s tale was a little too close! Then they rested on the bottom of the ocean, clearly visible below us while we floated above them. Every now and then the calf swam from her hiding place beneath the mum’s chin to the surface where she would breathe, roll around, breach and play, before returning to her patient mum below.

There simply aren’t enough words to describe the feeling of total Oneness that I felt at this time.

It is such a priviledge and an honour to be with these giants of the sea.

For our trip, we stayed at The Reef Resort on Kapa, an island just off the main island of Vavau. We cannot speak highly enough of this resort, run by English couple, Tim and Theresa. The resort is located right next to a village and they employ several of the villages and run a first class and intimate business. Especially delightful, is the presence of their two dogs and three cats, all of which wander around the resort and rub against your legs while you dine on the most incredible (and abundant) food that they prepare themselves.

Their wonderful hospitality didn’t even end after we experienced the tsunami. Even though the water had come in and washed away their jetty (including cement foundations), Tim was on the job minutes later offering us a pot of tea and cooked breakfast!

We went swimming with Whales in the Wild and both businesses coordinated perfectly with each other to ensure that we were picked up and delivered to airports, taxis and boats on time. (Not always an easy thing to do when you’re on ‘island time’.)

Whenever I think of our trip I feel my chest swell with love, for the whales, for the Tongans, for the country, for The Reef Resort, and Tim and Theresa. We’ll be back, for sure.